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Sand-and-Cement Screed for Tile Flooring: The Technical Specification Guide

A screed is the layer of sand-and-cement mortar laid between the structural floor and the tiles. It is the part of a tiled floor you never see — and the part that decides whether the floor stays flat, bonded and crack-free for decades. At TN Stone we lay and tile over sand-and-cement screeds across Melbourne every week, so this guide sets out the specification we work to: mix ratios, water content, minimum thickness, compaction, curing and drying, and the joints and moisture tests that stop shrinkage cracks and hollow spots under tiles.

It follows AS 3958.1, the Australian standard guide to installing ceramic tiles, together with international screed practice from BS 8204 and the UK Contract Flooring Association.

Why the mix consistency matters more than anything else

Traditional screed is a semi-dry, “earth-moist” mortar — typically 1 part cement to 4 parts clean sharp sand by volume (1:3 for heavy-duty or very thin bonded layers). It is not a wet mix. The water content sits at a water-to-cement ratio of roughly 0.35 — just enough for the cement to hydrate fully, low enough to keep drying shrinkage to a minimum.

The site check is the squeeze test: squeeze a handful of mixed screed in a gloved hand. It should hold its shape without crumbling, and no water should weep out. If water runs between your fingers, the mix is too wet — the finished screed will be weaker and far more prone to shrinkage cracking. Never fix a stiff mix by dumping in extra water; adjust in small increments.

Minimum thickness by screed type

How the screed connects to the base dictates how thick it must be:

Build-upMinimum thicknessReinforcement
Bonded — laid wet-on-wet over a cement slurry coat on prepared concrete15 mmNot required
Unbonded (self-supporting) — over a plastic slip sheet or waterproofing membrane40 mmGalvanised steel mesh, compulsory
Floating — over insulation or underfloor heating40 mm domesticMesh or fibre recommended

These are AS 3958-based figures: a bonded topping should never go below 15 mm, and a self-supporting screed below 40 mm risks cracking outright. Where mortar is used as the tile bed itself rather than a separate screed, a nominal 25 mm bed (15–30 mm acceptable) is the AS 3958 guidance.

Preparing the base

Laying and compaction — how hollow spots are prevented

Hollow, drummy tiles almost always trace back to poor compaction or poor adhesive coverage — not the tiles.

Curing and drying — the schedule that governs your tiling date

Curing and drying are two different things, and confusing them is the classic error:

  1. Cure (0–7 days): cover the finished screed with polyethylene sheeting, protect it from sun, wind and frost, keep traffic off for 48 hours. Curing holds moisture in while strength builds — it is one of the most important crack-prevention measures there is.
  2. Dry (day 7 onward): remove covers and let the screed air-dry continuously before tiling.

The accepted drying rule for sand-and-cement screed is 1 day per millimetre of thickness for the first 40–50 mm, then 2 days per millimetre beyond that — and only in good conditions (about 20 °C, low humidity, real ventilation). A 40 mm bathroom screed is roughly 6 weeks before it is reliably dry enough to tile.

The definitive check is a moisture test, not a calendar. AS 3958.1’s acceptance criterion is no more than 5.5% moisture by its electrical-resistance test method; the international equivalents are a hair-hygrometer reading at or below 75% relative humidity, or 2% by the calcium-carbide (CM) method. Tiling onto a wet screed traps moisture, which attacks the adhesive bond and debonds the tiles.

Joints: controlling shrinkage before it cracks your tiles

Every screed shrinks as it dries — the design task is controlling where:

Missing movement joints are the single most common cause of tile cracking and grout failure in residential work — the damage typically shows up 6 to 18 months after handover.

Common defects and their causes

SymptomUsual cause
Random shrinkage cracksToo much water in the mix; no bay joints; screed too thin for its build-up
Hollow/drummy tilesUnder-compacted screed; adhesive coverage below 90%; spot-fixing
Debonding screedSlurry coat allowed to dry before placing mortar; unprepared or contaminated base
Cracks mirroring slab jointsScreed or tiling bridging a substrate joint
Dusty, weak surfaceSemi-dry mix never properly compacted; over-watered mix

TN Stone’s checklist before tiles go down

  1. 1:4 mix, sharp washed sand, batched by gauge box.
  2. Squeeze test passed — no water weeping.
  3. Thickness verified: 15 mm bonded minimum, 40 mm unbonded with mesh.
  4. Compaction over 100% of the area.
  5. 7-day cure under polythene, protected.
  6. Drying time allowed (1 day/mm to 40–50 mm, then 2 days/mm).
  7. Moisture tested and documented: ≤5.5% (AS 3958.1) or ≤75% RH.
  8. Movement joints in place, sealant-filled, full depth.

A screed is only as good as the specification behind it. If you are planning a tiled floor in Melbourne — bathroom, kitchen, balcony or a full home — talk to us about getting the base right before a single tile is laid. Find out more about our tiling services.

Planning a tiled floor and want the screed specified properly before tiling starts?

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Common questions

How long does a screed take to dry before tiling?

About 1 day per millimetre of thickness up to 40–50 mm, then 2 days per millimetre beyond — and always confirmed with a moisture test (≤5.5% per AS 3958.1) before tiles go down.

What is the correct sand-and-cement mix for a floor screed?

1 part cement to 4 parts clean sharp sand by volume for standard work, mixed semi-dry at roughly 0.35 water-to-cement; 1:3 for heavy-duty or very thin bonded layers.

Why do tiles sound hollow after installation?

Usually under-compacted screed or adhesive coverage below 90% — voids under the tile. Lift-and-check during laying prevents it.

How thick does a screed need to be?

15 mm minimum for a bonded screed; 40 mm minimum for an unbonded or floating screed (with steel mesh).